Cheap prices but harmful to the earth, consumers are in a dilemma_1

During the COVID-19 pandemic, content creator Angie Wang experienced the powerful influence of fast fashion firsthand. The 28-year-old former IT resource analyst was inspired to pivot her career after watching viral videos from influencer Lauren Giraldo, particularly one featuring the “12-3-30” treadmill workout—an exercise routine involving a 12% incline, 3-mile-per-hour pace, for 30 minutes.

Wang reflected on her decision, noting that creative expression suits her personality, and the posts she shares can potentially earn her more income than her previous salary. However, the rapidly changing fashion trends forced her to act quickly, often collaborating with brands like Shein. Initially, she started by buying simple items like t-shirts and pants, but soon realized that the pace of new product releases was accelerating. “Newness is essential for survival in the social media realm,” she stated.

In contrast, fellow fashion enthusiast Lianne Calvo opted for sustainability over trends, turning to secondhand clothing. The 19-year-old junior at UCLA humorously highlighted this by pointing out that her outfit originally belonged to her mother, who looked “younger” wearing it. “I feel like pulling treasures from her closet is better than new,” she added.

The fast fashion model, which can take mere weeks from concept to retail, presents a dilemma for young consumers. On one hand, Instagram is flooded with over a million posts tagged #sheinhaul, showcasing influencers flaunting their Shein purchases, many garnering more than 90,000 likes. On the other hand, a quick YouTube search for “fast fashion” reveals countless Gen Z creators voicing concerns about the environmental impact and labor exploitation associated with the industry, some videos racking up millions of views.

YouTuber Jordan Theresa emphasized in her 31-minute video that the trendy clothes that surged in popularity during the pandemic have quickly fallen out of favor. She lamented the relentless cycle of purchasing dictated by rapidly shifting trends, pointing to viewer comments after watching the 2022 film “Not Okay,” where audiences critiqued the 2020 fashion depicted as “so ugly.”

Fast fashion brands like Zara, often credited as pioneers since its inception in 1975, face competition from online-only entities like Shein and Temu, which thrived during the pandemic and now hold a market share in the U.S. that is double what it was pre-pandemic.

Magali Delmas, a management professor at UCLA, notes that the rapid rise of online fast fashion stems from increasing globalization, coupled with cheap labor and low costs. She remarked that most consumers resist changing their shopping habits unless there’s a direct benefit to them, and are unlikely to sacrifice for environmental causes. Efforts to compel companies to disclose their carbon footprints or to restrict the use of non-eco-friendly materials may have a modest impact, she said, citing California’s pending Senate Bill 707, which mandates apparel companies to submit production and recycling plans.

Meanwhile, Rachel Kinnard, a Los Angeles-based designer and educator, refuses to wait for slow-moving legislation. Her course at Chapman University on “Sustainable Fashion” has not only reached full enrollment but also generated enthusiastic interaction. The curriculum includes practical mending sessions and visits to the Garment Worker Center, along with clothing exchanges among students. “Not buying new clothes is the most environmentally friendly choice,” she explained.

Mindy Luo, a 21-year-old senior at UCLA and president of the campus sustainable fashion initiative “RefineLA,” alongside vice president Lianne Calvo, aims to promote the use of secondhand clothing among students. While thrift store finds can be incredibly affordable—sometimes under ten dollars—the challenge remains that clothes from Shein or Temu are often even cheaper.

Returning to Angie Wang, she acknowledged her awareness of fast fashion’s issues and her desire to curb spending. However, she conceded that fast fashion garments often boast superior quality compared to name brands while costing significantly less. “If you’re not overbuying or are looking for something to wear long-term, there’s nothing wrong with opting for fast fashion. Name brands often cost ten times more, and economic feasibility is a major consideration for young shoppers.”

Some individuals are looking to offer alternatives beyond traditional thrift shopping. Mia Parra, a recent UCLA graduate, launched “Market 10:42,” focused on selling classic clothing. The unique condition for sellers is that they cannot offer any fast fashion items, even secondhand ones. She promotes the market through her Instagram account “@1042flea,” which has attracted 37,000 followers, with some sales events featuring over a hundred vendors.

Rachel Kinnard utilizes social media to spread awareness and encourage student participation in fashion sustainability projects, including filming and uploading content as part of their assignments. However, she understands that sustainable fashion has never quite captured mainstream appeal.

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